It is possible that I am getting faster at this, which would be quite a relief since I am looking at so much more on the partlet. Speaking of which, while I'm waiting for my Margo's Patterns to get here (and trembling in anticipation) I've been pondering what I want to do with the collar. I don't really care for the netting pattern on the collar of my inspiration piece, nor do I want to go with plain fabric, so I think I'm going to go with more of the same drawn thread pattern....and possibly a macramé edging.
I know, you're most likely thinking 'but you already tried a macramé edging on a veil and got nowhere,' and, well, you'd be right. However I learned a lot in the process and one of those things is that the fabric I was using wasn't suitable for such work. I think this one may be. Since I will have to cut a length of fabric at least 10" deep to make gussets I think I'll make a test swatch from some of the scrap and see what I think. If it works I'll probably use the test for cuffs. (Which would also conveniently solve the question of whether I am going to make loose or cuffed sleeves. Bonus!) I've seen examples of macramé lace on partlet collars in portraits so I know it was done in period too.
And then there is the insertion stitch to join the pieces together. As it turns out, I only had to look a few minutes on Pinterest before I found a pin with the exact stich I was looking for. As I thought, I will have to put in the rows of hem stitch and square hem stitch at the edge of my fabric panels, and then make a WHOLE LOT of stitches to connect the panels together and then join them together into bundles, same as the drawn thread work I've already done. I think if I do it right they will be nearly indistinguishable, at least from a bit of distance. :)
Finally, musings on embroidery...pattern? color? What to do?
Hmm.....
Showing posts with label IRCC. Show all posts
Showing posts with label IRCC. Show all posts
Saturday, April 20, 2013
Thursday, April 18, 2013
And finally, progress on the IRCC3 layer 1 project
I've finished the three drawn thread bands which break my sleeve in four half-width panels. Well, I mean that I have finished the bands on my first sleeve. yippee! And I've started pulling the threads to repeat the pattern on the second sleeve. Progress is being made!
Sunday, April 14, 2013
IRCC3-We're Off!
I know it's silly, but I spent much of yesterday stitching away at the drawn thread work on my camicia sleeve and impatiently waiting for the IRCC3 to get started in the USA so I could finally get to work *for real*.
I have days (probably weeks) of embroidery still to come but it just feels different to know that we are now all working together, and I can work on anything I want!
Woo Hoo!
I've been pondering my four accessories and I'm pretty sure I will make a partlet, veil and feather fan. But what to do for item 4....shoes?
Anyway, good stitching to my fellow IRCC3-ers! I can hardly wait to see what you get up to.
I have days (probably weeks) of embroidery still to come but it just feels different to know that we are now all working together, and I can work on anything I want!
Woo Hoo!
I've been pondering my four accessories and I'm pretty sure I will make a partlet, veil and feather fan. But what to do for item 4....shoes?
Anyway, good stitching to my fellow IRCC3-ers! I can hardly wait to see what you get up to.
Tuesday, April 9, 2013
Layer 4 thoughts - Partlet
As I was working on the drawn thread embroidery of my Camicia a few days ago I came upon this glorious outfit courtesy of the Elizabethean Costuming facebook page. As I gazed on in awe I realized that the oversleeves and partlet are most likely/almost certainly draw-thread work, formed in large part by the same pea hole stitch I am using on the camicia!
How, exactly, one would get drawn-thread to work in a series of graduated rings as depicted in the partlet is a mystery to me at this point (if it can even be done!) but the sleeves are simple bands. THAT I can do. Thus my IRCC3 partlett was conceived.
In order to figure out the pattern before attempting to size it up into a partlet I cropped-out a detail of the flattest part of one of the sleeves, blew it up and started counting. On closer examination I feel that while this portrait is not an accurate-to-the-stitch recording of the pattern it does convey the feeling and approximate pattern and proportions well. I read the bunches as being sets of 5 bars taking up the space of 2 1/2 pea hole stitches in width and two pattern heights in depth. Two and 1/2 pea hole stitches are comprised of 5 bars so I feel good that my counting out various sections of the portrait sleeves has worked to establish a plausible pattern. I guess the next step would be to work up a test swatch. :)
How, exactly, one would get drawn-thread to work in a series of graduated rings as depicted in the partlet is a mystery to me at this point (if it can even be done!) but the sleeves are simple bands. THAT I can do. Thus my IRCC3 partlett was conceived.
In order to figure out the pattern before attempting to size it up into a partlet I cropped-out a detail of the flattest part of one of the sleeves, blew it up and started counting. On closer examination I feel that while this portrait is not an accurate-to-the-stitch recording of the pattern it does convey the feeling and approximate pattern and proportions well. I read the bunches as being sets of 5 bars taking up the space of 2 1/2 pea hole stitches in width and two pattern heights in depth. Two and 1/2 pea hole stitches are comprised of 5 bars so I feel good that my counting out various sections of the portrait sleeves has worked to establish a plausible pattern. I guess the next step would be to work up a test swatch. :)
Sunday, April 7, 2013
IRCC3 - About that drawn thread work
I have to say that this stuff takes an incredible amount of time. Possibly the worst part of it is that the earlier steps kinda fool you into thinking it will work up fairly quickly...and then you suddenly discovered that you've done all of 4 inches in the last several hours and the horrible truth sinks in!
The pattern is pretty simple. Centering on the location of my 'seam', I pulled a vertical pattern of pull 2 threads, leave 4 threads, pull 7 threads, leave 4 threads, pull two threads. The outer two edges of are worked in a simple hem stitch in sets of 4 threads. (This is the part which goes quickly.) One of the bands of four threads is worked into sets by bracketing the edges of the square with stitching. (Four sided hemstich. Slower, but still feeling good.) And then the time comes to work the second band into sets while also attaching the ladder-rung-like groupings of threads the stitching has created together into X's. (Pea hole hemstich. Bang! It's three days later and it feels like nothing has been done.)
O.K. I'm doing a bit of exaggerating.
I started out using the linen threads I had removed to do the stitching but since I had already started into the threads removed from the sleeves before I completed the stitching on the body it was clear that there wouldn't be enough to complete the process. Rather than canabalizing the remaining fabric for additional thread, I have switched to cotton thread for the stitching on the sleeves. It doesn't match as well but gives a much cleaner finish and running out is not an issue.
Stitched with the pulled linen warp threads.
The pattern is pretty simple. Centering on the location of my 'seam', I pulled a vertical pattern of pull 2 threads, leave 4 threads, pull 7 threads, leave 4 threads, pull two threads. The outer two edges of are worked in a simple hem stitch in sets of 4 threads. (This is the part which goes quickly.) One of the bands of four threads is worked into sets by bracketing the edges of the square with stitching. (Four sided hemstich. Slower, but still feeling good.) And then the time comes to work the second band into sets while also attaching the ladder-rung-like groupings of threads the stitching has created together into X's. (Pea hole hemstich. Bang! It's three days later and it feels like nothing has been done.)
O.K. I'm doing a bit of exaggerating.
I started out using the linen threads I had removed to do the stitching but since I had already started into the threads removed from the sleeves before I completed the stitching on the body it was clear that there wouldn't be enough to complete the process. Rather than canabalizing the remaining fabric for additional thread, I have switched to cotton thread for the stitching on the sleeves. It doesn't match as well but gives a much cleaner finish and running out is not an issue.
Stitched with the pulled linen warp threads.
Saturday, April 6, 2013
IRCC3--I'm in!
And while the counter ticks off the moments until the official start, I thought I'd share a bit of my thoughts so far as I work on the "extensive handwork" (which is allowable early work) on my camicia.
My pattern:
I decided to make the style which is simply assembled lengths of fabric with square gussets in the armpits but with a couple of changes from the plain cotton one I did about 10 years ago. (Which is still going strong, by the way.) Firstly, my new camicia is 100% linen in the body, and very sheer. I plan to embellish it to within an inch of it's life! I also plan to gather the neckline into a band this time, and to edge it with needle lace.
To begin I held the fabric up to my desired height for the finished neckline, measured and decided that I want a camicia that hangs about 36" from the neckline to hem. i then measured from the top pf my shoulder down my arm and decided that my sleeves also need to be about 36" in order to have length for puffings. I will need at least two full widths of fabric (a modern "56") in the body--three would be preferable--in order for the camicia to have the appropriate looseness around my frame. I will need another full width for each sleeve to maintain the appropriate proportions so I started by cutting 4 lengths of fabric.
I next considered the question of loom widths. I did consider cutting my fabric into narrower panels to mimick those available in period. I decided against it mostly because it seems to me that would introduce the weakness of a cut edge at the exact spot the system is meant to take advantage of the strength of a woven one. It seems to me that the system of constructing garments from basic shapes which make full use of the fabric as woven is a brilliant combination of the saving of time, effort and materials, flexibility of fitting, and using materials in such a way that their strengths are taken advantage of and weaknesses minimized. I can't imagine a Sixteenth century seamstress who needed to make a camicia for a woman of my stature cutting 45" wide fabric apart because she was used to a narrower width. I think she'd use what she had and thank her lucky stars for finding it!
That being said, I have noticed that camicie made from modern loom widths often look strangely 'wrong' to my eyes. I believe that is because the practice of embellishment at the seam lines has made the visual rhythm of those seams an integral part of the garment which we strongly notice when missing. Thus, I compromised by using the full width of fabric but introducing bands of embellishment at approximately the locations which would have been seams in period.
I believe that one period approach to my camicia could have been to supplement the traditional four body panels with half-width panels set in at each seam. I have worked my bands of drawn-thread lace at 1/4 and 3/4's the breadth of my panel to approximate the front, back, and four inserted 1/2 breadth pieces of this hypothetical approach. You will have noticed that I still need the side panels...
They are coming. After I finish the drawn-thread embroidery on the sleeves!
My pattern:
I decided to make the style which is simply assembled lengths of fabric with square gussets in the armpits but with a couple of changes from the plain cotton one I did about 10 years ago. (Which is still going strong, by the way.) Firstly, my new camicia is 100% linen in the body, and very sheer. I plan to embellish it to within an inch of it's life! I also plan to gather the neckline into a band this time, and to edge it with needle lace.
To begin I held the fabric up to my desired height for the finished neckline, measured and decided that I want a camicia that hangs about 36" from the neckline to hem. i then measured from the top pf my shoulder down my arm and decided that my sleeves also need to be about 36" in order to have length for puffings. I will need at least two full widths of fabric (a modern "56") in the body--three would be preferable--in order for the camicia to have the appropriate looseness around my frame. I will need another full width for each sleeve to maintain the appropriate proportions so I started by cutting 4 lengths of fabric.
I next considered the question of loom widths. I did consider cutting my fabric into narrower panels to mimick those available in period. I decided against it mostly because it seems to me that would introduce the weakness of a cut edge at the exact spot the system is meant to take advantage of the strength of a woven one. It seems to me that the system of constructing garments from basic shapes which make full use of the fabric as woven is a brilliant combination of the saving of time, effort and materials, flexibility of fitting, and using materials in such a way that their strengths are taken advantage of and weaknesses minimized. I can't imagine a Sixteenth century seamstress who needed to make a camicia for a woman of my stature cutting 45" wide fabric apart because she was used to a narrower width. I think she'd use what she had and thank her lucky stars for finding it!
That being said, I have noticed that camicie made from modern loom widths often look strangely 'wrong' to my eyes. I believe that is because the practice of embellishment at the seam lines has made the visual rhythm of those seams an integral part of the garment which we strongly notice when missing. Thus, I compromised by using the full width of fabric but introducing bands of embellishment at approximately the locations which would have been seams in period.
I believe that one period approach to my camicia could have been to supplement the traditional four body panels with half-width panels set in at each seam. I have worked my bands of drawn-thread lace at 1/4 and 3/4's the breadth of my panel to approximate the front, back, and four inserted 1/2 breadth pieces of this hypothetical approach. You will have noticed that I still need the side panels...
They are coming. After I finish the drawn-thread embroidery on the sleeves!
Friday, March 8, 2013
Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #11 - Hmmm...A Shift!
Am I being bad? Hmm...I'm really not sure.
I have the materials for my "Peasants and Pioneers" project, but not the inclination so I've started on the project I do have inclination for: Squares, Rectangles and Triangles. I've been thinking for awhile that I wanted to try a highly embellished camicia--from scratch. And as the days wind down to the commencement of the IRCC3 my mind has wandered to embroidery patterns, and needle lace edgings, and the 10 yards of sheer white linen (IL030) I bought when it recently went on sale at fabrics-store.com.
I pondered. And I thought. And I mused, and I pinned. And then I took up my scissors and started cutting!
And now, about 8 1/4 hours into the beyond-the-cutting-phase part of the project I am well on my way to my first completed bit of embellishment. Details will follow later but for now let's just look at my pretty pretty pulled-thread work!
I have the materials for my "Peasants and Pioneers" project, but not the inclination so I've started on the project I do have inclination for: Squares, Rectangles and Triangles. I've been thinking for awhile that I wanted to try a highly embellished camicia--from scratch. And as the days wind down to the commencement of the IRCC3 my mind has wandered to embroidery patterns, and needle lace edgings, and the 10 yards of sheer white linen (IL030) I bought when it recently went on sale at fabrics-store.com.
I pondered. And I thought. And I mused, and I pinned. And then I took up my scissors and started cutting!
And now, about 8 1/4 hours into the beyond-the-cutting-phase part of the project I am well on my way to my first completed bit of embellishment. Details will follow later but for now let's just look at my pretty pretty pulled-thread work!
Saturday, April 28, 2012
I think the universe it trying to tell me something
Like that it's time to be getting started on my camicia!
Have you been reading Baroque Embellishments lately?
I'd call that a sign...
Sunday, April 8, 2012
IRCC II - So Excited!
I just took a look at the challenge entrants page and we are up to 24 participants! WooHoo! That should make for some really interesting exchanges, and many pretty pictures!
In terms of my own plans, I've been busily reading about padded bodices, and hems, and pondering the need for chopines--and the extra height they bring-- to balance out the deep point of 1590's gowns. (although I really suspect it was the other way round. Longer skirts lead to an increase in the depth of the waist to trick the eye into normalizing the proportions of the figure.)
I think my available fabric will prevent my going for chopines and a train on this gown so I expect to be concentrating on the details of fitting the gown and making fabulous accessories.
Possibly fabulously naughty accessories!
I've yet to explore the Courtesan aspect of my persona in any depth. A shame, really, as there are endless opportunities to spice up my garb in a way that would resonate with Venice in the late 1500's. So, I'm thinking about:
Embroidered drawers - I'll probably leave the entire crotch seam open. For(ahem) convenience. And embroider some truly raunchy period poetry along the opening. I'm thinking one of Arentino's banned works.
In terms of my own plans, I've been busily reading about padded bodices, and hems, and pondering the need for chopines--and the extra height they bring-- to balance out the deep point of 1590's gowns. (although I really suspect it was the other way round. Longer skirts lead to an increase in the depth of the waist to trick the eye into normalizing the proportions of the figure.)
I think my available fabric will prevent my going for chopines and a train on this gown so I expect to be concentrating on the details of fitting the gown and making fabulous accessories.
Possibly fabulously naughty accessories!
I've yet to explore the Courtesan aspect of my persona in any depth. A shame, really, as there are endless opportunities to spice up my garb in a way that would resonate with Venice in the late 1500's. So, I'm thinking about:
Embroidered drawers - I'll probably leave the entire crotch seam open. For(ahem) convenience. And embroider some truly raunchy period poetry along the opening. I'm thinking one of Arentino's banned works.
Erotic jewelry - years ago I bought a phallus-shaped natural pearl on e-bay with the intention of making it into Courtesan jewelry. I hope to make a classic 'winged phallus' pendant to wear...probably on a gold chain....hmm...maybe even one with a collar and leash?
Figs - as a symbol of the female, figs would be highly appropriate for use as a topic of embroidery on my camicia. And they would be rather easier to wear on my more modest days than the, also tempting to continue, winged phallus theme!
I'm still working on ideas for how to really play up the Courtesan aspect in this outfit. It's especially interesting for me because I find most period 'erotica' to be both misogynistic and sex-negative, at least the written stuff, and yet it can also be so delightfully forthright! I expect I could have a lot of fun putting forward my modern sex-positive, feminist spin with period-sourced words and images.
Wednesday, April 4, 2012
IRCC II - O.K. I'm in!
I've been pondering whether or not I was going to join in the IRCC this year.
I've realized that I don't really enjoy the competition aspect of such events and that what I'd really like to join in on is a group of people working on longer-term personal challenges to make one incredibly hand-work-intensive article. Like maybe a 4 month challenge to produce our dream camicias, or something...
Still, I find that the IRCC is a great catalyst for me to try new things, meet new people, and get some sewing done. I really like it all up until the judging!
So, pondering aside, I'm in. Now I just have to decide what I'm going to work on. I already have the fabric for several gowns in my stash but I'm torn between making up one (or possibly more) of those long delayed Venetian-style dress projects or taking on a portrait gown. I've never tried to make the best copy I could of a specific dress and it sounds...kinda fun!
Of course, the fact that the dresses I most want to copy are all crazy elaborate (for one reason or another) is rather a drawback
Hmm......
Right now I'm leaning towards concentrating on trying out new techniques. I'm happy with the support offered by a bodice with a hemp corded supportive lining but I've been wondering what the results would be of combining that technique with the support and smoothness offered by the technique of padding the bodice with layers of wool felt. Would it be more supportive? Perhaps it would eliminate the tendency of my outer fabric to develop small wrinkles?
I'm also interested in trying out the documented techniques of a period style padded, clipped and tucked hem, and maybe even padded pleats at the waist. I took on the challenge of sewing an outfit entirely by hand years ago but I'm not particularly wedded to it at this point....hmm...what to do....?
I've realized that I don't really enjoy the competition aspect of such events and that what I'd really like to join in on is a group of people working on longer-term personal challenges to make one incredibly hand-work-intensive article. Like maybe a 4 month challenge to produce our dream camicias, or something...
Still, I find that the IRCC is a great catalyst for me to try new things, meet new people, and get some sewing done. I really like it all up until the judging!
So, pondering aside, I'm in. Now I just have to decide what I'm going to work on. I already have the fabric for several gowns in my stash but I'm torn between making up one (or possibly more) of those long delayed Venetian-style dress projects or taking on a portrait gown. I've never tried to make the best copy I could of a specific dress and it sounds...kinda fun!
Of course, the fact that the dresses I most want to copy are all crazy elaborate (for one reason or another) is rather a drawback
Hmm......
Right now I'm leaning towards concentrating on trying out new techniques. I'm happy with the support offered by a bodice with a hemp corded supportive lining but I've been wondering what the results would be of combining that technique with the support and smoothness offered by the technique of padding the bodice with layers of wool felt. Would it be more supportive? Perhaps it would eliminate the tendency of my outer fabric to develop small wrinkles?
I'm also interested in trying out the documented techniques of a period style padded, clipped and tucked hem, and maybe even padded pleats at the waist. I took on the challenge of sewing an outfit entirely by hand years ago but I'm not particularly wedded to it at this point....hmm...what to do....?
Thursday, January 19, 2012
Just one more from the Walters Art Museum, Baltimore
Kitchen Interior, Dirck de Vries, Netherlandish, ca. 1600
Thursday, January 12, 2012
Tuesday, December 13, 2011
Better Living Through Shopping
I admit that I am feeling the teensyiest bit guilty about this (it's too easy!) but I think I've found a way to test-run a lacis partlet.
That is, to try it out and make some observations about the shape, support and coverage I will need prior to making my own lacis partlet 100% by my own hands.
You guessed it, I found some lacis pieces on e-bay. Ten of them, in fact, and each about 8 3/4" square.
They came in the mail yesterday and while they make my own poor attempts at lacis look like great hulking lumpish things in comparison (I'm going to have to look into getting a smaller gauge and some finer thread) I'm excited to skip past the 'making the lacis' stage and get right down to making a partlet so I can experiment with the 'how in the world does this work!?!' part.
Now I just have to figure out how I want to assemble them....
and then get up enough courage to wear it!
That is, to try it out and make some observations about the shape, support and coverage I will need prior to making my own lacis partlet 100% by my own hands.
You guessed it, I found some lacis pieces on e-bay. Ten of them, in fact, and each about 8 3/4" square.
They came in the mail yesterday and while they make my own poor attempts at lacis look like great hulking lumpish things in comparison (I'm going to have to look into getting a smaller gauge and some finer thread) I'm excited to skip past the 'making the lacis' stage and get right down to making a partlet so I can experiment with the 'how in the world does this work!?!' part.
Now I just have to figure out how I want to assemble them....
and then get up enough courage to wear it!
Friday, November 11, 2011
Um, help?
I'm having one of those days.
When I was looking for a pattern to work in lacis for my Idle Hands Challenge flag fan I kept seeing period patterns which I think may be for lacis partlets.
They were shaped vaguely like a diamond with the top tip cut off which left a flat top for the neck opening, slanted top sides for the shoulder seams, and a long point going down to the waistline in the back. (Or at least that is how I envision it working.) But now that I have formed the ambition to make such a partlet for my IRCC outfit can I find a pattern? Nope!
If any of my readers happens to recognize this description and knows where the patterns may be found I would really appreciate a hint. Thanks!
When I was looking for a pattern to work in lacis for my Idle Hands Challenge flag fan I kept seeing period patterns which I think may be for lacis partlets.
They were shaped vaguely like a diamond with the top tip cut off which left a flat top for the neck opening, slanted top sides for the shoulder seams, and a long point going down to the waistline in the back. (Or at least that is how I envision it working.) But now that I have formed the ambition to make such a partlet for my IRCC outfit can I find a pattern? Nope!
If any of my readers happens to recognize this description and knows where the patterns may be found I would really appreciate a hint. Thanks!
Friday, October 7, 2011
Tasty Nibble #16 - Idle Hands Feather fan - WIP
There's still another layer of feathers to come!
As usual, I'm also posting construction details on the "What Holds Breasts Up?" page.
As usual, I'm also posting construction details on the "What Holds Breasts Up?" page.
Friday, September 30, 2011
Better Late than Never
I have finally got some Pennsic pictures to post.
This is of me, all dressed up and ready for the Red and White Ball.
And this is my Boen.
This is of me, all dressed up and ready for the Red and White Ball.
And this is my Boen.
Saturday, August 13, 2011
Home again, home again, jiggety jig!
I'm exhausted, but HOME!
Pennsic was lovely. Pennsic was overwhelming. Pennsic was HOT!
Sleeping now, but later I will gush at you about how lovely my IRCC undergown looked at the red and white ball...
:)
Pennsic was lovely. Pennsic was overwhelming. Pennsic was HOT!
Sleeping now, but later I will gush at you about how lovely my IRCC undergown looked at the red and white ball...
:)
Thursday, July 28, 2011
Saturday, July 23, 2011
Tasty nibble #14 - IRCC Project #2 is done!
Behold, a close-up of my new girdle!
As usual, you can find more info on the "What holds breasts up?" page!
As usual, you can find more info on the "What holds breasts up?" page!
Monday, July 18, 2011
Now if I can just get this sucker to stay on!
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