Monday, February 25, 2013

Embellishment challenge update-1880's hat finished

Ah...that's better.

And the details:

The Challenge: 4 - Embellishment

Fabric: 100% silk dupioni, Plaid

Pattern: NA

Year: 1883-85-ish

Notions: straw hat, black cotton lace, purchased floral spray

How historically accurate is it? I'd say medium. I was inspired by a few particular hats but the proportions aren't quite right for the period. I'm having a hard time going for tall rather than round.

Hours to complete: started by shopping at about noon on Saturday, finished at about 9:30 pm on Monday. Maybe around 12?

First worn: Soon, I hope!

Total cost:
$ 2.99 USD for the hat and $3.99 USD for the flowers. All the rest is from the stash.

Sunday, February 24, 2013

Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge 4: Embellishment

Phase 1

Purchase cheap costume hat and remove 'embellishment' begin to unweave rear portion.

Phase 2

Re-weave rear portion of hat to shape around read of head/back of neck. Attempt to finish much more nicely than original. I tried being lazy and just re-weaving dry but I was getting too much breakage at the edge so I wet the straw. It was so thin that I just had to run the faucet on it for a bit. I think it's easy to tell which strand was done by each method. :) I also wove the extra bits into the existing crown to cover the four eyelets which had been part of the original design.

Phase 3

Paint the hat.

Phase 4

Line hat and bind outer edge. I lined the hat with leftover scrap silk from the bustle dress I hope the wear the hat with, then realized that committing myself to silk meant that I couldn't edge or trim the bonnet with the polyester ribbons I had been planning on incorporating. They just look too cheap and thick and clunky in comparison! I'm going to have to find something appropriate to introduce on the hat so it doesn't look to matchy-matchy but a good start is to use my plaid fabric in a variety of ways to play up the inherent differences. Thus, the inside of the brim is a band of black surrounding a band or gray, the interior of the hat is a band of stripes surrounding the original plaid, and the edging is a band of alternating black and black and brown stripes. Whew!

Phase 5

Touch up paint on the hat!

Phase 6

Trim. And trim. And trim some more!

When I cut up my scrap fabric to get material for the edge binding I also cut out the straw-and-black striped section I planned to use for trim. I used my new scalloped pinking shears for the very first time! I have hoards of tiny black cotton lace that has yet to be used on the dress which I think I'll use to trim the edges and give the bows more body. You can't really go wrong with adding more trim to an 1880's hat!

Hmmm, however, you can go wrong by adding too little!

It just looks a little skimpy on the sides...

Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Historical Sew Fortnightly #3 - 18th Century Blue Linen Stays

The Challenge: #3 - Underneath it All

Fabric: blue linen body, white cotton canvas interlining, white cotton lining

Pattern: adapted from the mantua makers 18th century stays, back in about 2006 when I was clearly a different shape.

Year: mid to later 18th century

Notions: purchased bias tape, twill tape and gros grain ribbon, metal boning

How historically accurate is it? Low to moderate. I was more concerned with getting a smooth line, fast (ha!) so I went with machine stitching and metal boning...however, the eyelets and the binding of the tabs on the bottom edge are all done by hand!

Hours to complete: I just don't track all...but something like a final rush of about 17 hours work at the end of a very long wait. And now it's done!

I have proof!

First worn: February 12, 2013

Total cost: I have no idea of the cost overall but I spent about $4 on ribbon to lace it closed.

Sunday, February 10, 2013

To tell you the truth...

I am still not inspired to work in the blue linen corset! I've been plugging out...

When you add all the stitching together it is not a whole lot. :) I'll keep plugging away through the weekend and hope for the best. I guess I just don't like binding tabs.

***(two days later)***

The tabs are done! And it only took me, what, eight years to do?!

Isn't she pretty?

Now on to the eyelets. I actually *like* doing eyelets so I am hopefull it won't be another eight years. :)