Showing posts with label IRCC II. Show all posts
Showing posts with label IRCC II. Show all posts

Sunday, July 15, 2012

IRCC II - Tasty Nibble 14: Oooo! Lacy!

I'm keeping a more detailed record of the progress of my Camicia in the "Stitch by stitch" page but I couldn't resist sharing this shot...



I'm not getting much lift (I need to try fitting a bodice when it doesn't have lace I care about attached) but even though it's cut extremely low I feel really secure that this neckline isn't going anywhere. It's definitely the best fit I've achieved so far. happiness!

Saturday, July 14, 2012

Thursday, July 12, 2012

Sunday, July 8, 2012

IRCC 2 - Nearing the finish line with the loose gown

After cutting, trimming and hemming the 14 tabs for my shoulders I sorted them by width and separated them into two similar stacks of 7 tabs each. I decided to layer them so I made two off-set stacked strips, three-on-four, and pinned them together.



After setting them into the armeye and then setting in the sleeve I have this:



Rather nice, I think. :)

I may decide to attach some of the tabs together near the tips to control the shape they make but I want to give them a bit of time to find their own way. Now on to sewing in the other side!

Saturday, July 7, 2012

IRCC 2 - Shoulder tabs are on the way

I've cut shoulder tabs from the leftover strip from the original button placket and pocket flaps of the coat, 14 in all, and am now working on the gold braid.

Thursday, June 28, 2012

IRCC 2 - Inching closer...

The first row of gold trim is all stitched down and together, the second row is down, and the sleeves are pinned in place. I guess I'll have to figure out the shoulder trim any moment now...

Tuesday, June 26, 2012

IRCC 2 - I'm getting close...

No, really!

I attached the collar to the loose gown and I'm about 1/2 done stitching the fur together at the neck. I've also got the first 2 rows of gold braid pinned in place on the collar--all ready to sew--and the sleeves pined into the armseyes. That part is giving me a bit of trouble. I'm taking out one of the sleeves and repinning it until it hangs the same as the other one. I have a feeling it will take several tries but I know it will be worth the effort when they both *behave properly* when I wear the gown. Once I have the angles of the sleeves correct I'll be sewing in the underpart of the sleeves and then...(cue scary music)...making (up) the shoulder treatments.

I have a tiny little pile of fabric left from which to make something decorative for the shoulders. Well, that little pile and a lot of gold braid. Hmmm....

I'm also considering taking the second band of gold braid and doing something decorative with it as it rounds the collar and reaches the center back...

Also hmmmmm....

In the meantime, perhaps you would like to see a picture of my pile of scraps? Um, I mean my shoulder treatment in progress?



Sunday, May 20, 2012

IRCC II - Tasty Nibble #10

A peek at the printed linen for my 'test dress' (which, by the way, I am finally almost comfortable enough to call a sottana.)

IRCC II - Heeelllllllooooooooo out there!

Have you noticed that we are just not as chatty this year?

I wonder if it is the heat. Or we have been struck with a collective case of competitiveness that is keeping us from interacting. Or if we are all just too busy, or antisocial, or something...

Perhaps it's just my imagination.

Anyway, although I still have yet to finish a single item on my list--and thus have moments where I seethe with jealousy toward you more prolific types--I'd just like to say that I am following along with interest as we all work on our projects and ...

YOU ROCK!

Nice work. Now to get back to my own. :)

Tuesday, May 8, 2012

Saturday, May 5, 2012

IRCC II - Tasty Nibble #7

After one false start and a bit of experimentation I've gotten the fur lining finished on the left front of my loose gown.



I'm using the selvedge along the front opening, whip stitching it on, and then running several rows of stitching to catch the lining to the face fabric so the (very slippery) fur will stay in place. I also stitched the lining to the fabric along the gold trim on the hem. And then I turned the fur and stitched it to the lower edge too.

Friday, May 4, 2012

IRCC II - Veil Patterns, Working on a translation

It's amazingly hot here (for the beginning of May) and I melt faster just *thinking* about working on my loose gown. So I'm not!

Instead I've been working on a translation of the text which accompanies the veil images I posted on my "IRCC II - Stitch by Stitch" page. According to google translate the closest I could come to the texts on my ipad translate like this (and I've added my guesses too):

[287]
Patrones para "mantellina o rebociƱo de damasco" calcados del libro de Fracisco de la Rocha de Burgen, Geometria y traca perteneciente al oficio de sastre, Valencia, 1618.
El sastre advierte: "la parte yzquierda ha de yr flores arrba por ocasion que se suele echar por debaxo el braco derecho la una delantera y asi es bien que vaya la parte izquierda flores arriba"..

Patterns for "damask rebociƱo mantellina or" traced the book Fracisco de la Rocha of Burgen, Geometry and fireworks belonging to a tailor, Valencia, 1618..
The tailor warns, "the flowers r yzquierda must arrba per occasion that is often cast by braco vnder the front and right one is so good to be the top left flowers."



I'm thinking that this has something to do with how the curve of the outer edge would fall in rippling folds on either side if the top center was placed on the head...

[288]
Patrones para un "manto de seda para muger". Pagina del libro de Francisco de la Rocha Burguen, Geometria y traca perteneciente al oficio de sastre, Valencia, 1618.

Patterns for a "woman silk robe." Page of the book of Francisco de la Rocha Burguen, Geometry and fireworks belonging to a tailor, Valencia, 1618.

[289 & 290]
Interpretacion de los patrones del manto de seda para mujer de la FIG. 288, siguiendo las instructiones que de el sastre, que tienen algunos puntos oscuros. La pieza de tela extendida, que mide unos once metros de largo, se dobla primero en uno de sus extremos a lo ancho para sacar el patron de la FIG. 289, que resulta duplicado. Despues, doblando varias veces la tela restante a lo largo, se van cortando las piezas que componen el patron de la FIG. 290, igualmente duplicado. Estos patrones resultan, pues, de tela doble, lo cual se explica dado lo extraordinariamente finas y delgadas que eran las sedas empleadas en estos mantos.

Interpretation of the patterns of women's silk mantle of FIG. 288, following the INSTRUCTIONS that of the tailor, who have some dark spots. The piece of cloth extended, which is about eleven meters long, is bent first in one of its ends in width to make the pattern of FIG. 289, which is doubled. Then, bending the fabric several times remaining lengthwise cutting are component parts of the pattern of FIG. 290, also doubled. These patterns are, therefore, double fabric, which can be explained given the extremely fine and thin silks were used in these garments.

[291]
Las imagenes de algunos mantos femeninos muy particulares de los que se puede dar por seguro se correspondian con los incluidos por el sastre Rocha Burgen en su libro, nos permiten imaginar como si se disponian los patrones de las FIGS. 289 y 290. El resultado era como si se Ilevasen superpuestos dos mantos de distinta forma, que no sabemos como quedaban unidos; los extremos del que iba encima se unian delante, donde se recogian con una mano (ver FIGS. 292 y 293).

The images of some very particular female garments that can say for certain is corresponded with those chosen by the tailor Rocha Burgen in his book, allow us to imagine as if were preparing patterns of FIGS. 289 and 290. The result was as if two overlapping sheets Ilevasen differently, we do not know and were joined, the ends of which was joined up front, where they gathered with one hand (see FIGS. 292 and 293).

I think it's saying that the big oval veil and the veil shaped like a slice of bread were worn sewn together, the smaller layered on top of the larger whose outer tips were held in one hand. Looking at illustration 292 I can see it as a plausible explanation of that particular veil, but I haven't noticed layered veils in Venice...I'll have to go look!


I'd say there's still a way to go on the translation, but it's a start!

I'm currently leaning towards basing a veil on fig. 287 but I guess we'll just have to wait and see what fabric I come up with since the quantity of veil fabric will have a lot to say about what shape I can make.

Wednesday, May 2, 2012

IRCC II - Tasty Nibble #6

Another find from today's lovely book.

Do you see what I see? In the lower left section, near the bottom of the lady's skirts...period bustling!

It makes a lot of sense to me that the image comes from a dance manual. What a lovely and sensible way to manage a train.

I hope to have enough fabric for a train on this years gown and if I do I will definitely put in some eyelets for a bustling tie!



(Clicking on the photo will show you the full illustration.)

Sunday, April 29, 2012

Oooh! On-line instructions for drafting your own drawers.

While the exact shape and technique would need to be modified to make a more 16th century pair of drawers, the ideas and discussion around fit, sizing and body shape are well thought out, easy to understand and very helpful!

http://www.thesewingacademy.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/2010Drawers.pdf

Please note:
If the link above isn't working (it's on and off again for me) just go to the "The Compendium" tab at the top of the sewingacademy's home page, scoll down the page to the Free Patterns for women section, and there the drawers pattern will be.

Blackwork, oh my!

Surely one of us needs this?

Saturday, April 21, 2012

IRCC II - The Question of the Moment

O.K.

As you can see, I've started working on the trim. I'm tilting the inner loops in groups of four and I think the new interaction and rhythmic spacing does just what I wanted in terms of unifying the two small band of trim into a single unit. And it also looks much less modern to my eyes

Both good things!

The question of the moment is, 'Should I go further?'

I could do so many things...tilting the outside loops also, stitching an additional pattern where the four loops meet, pearling or jeweling the trim at the intersections, or in the spaces I've created...

I've yet to commence the work on the frogs and buttons with which to close this puppy so I don't want to go crazy but as we know I'm a 'More is more!' kind of girl...

What do you think?


Friday, April 20, 2012

IRCC II Tasty Nibble #5 - My Lace

It never fails to amaze me what I can find on e-bay!

Thursday, April 19, 2012

Tuesday, April 17, 2012