And then there was a muff - part 1

Spurred on by the impulsive purchase of a fabric sample in *just* the right colors I have been working on a new accessory  for the IRCC5, a fur lined muff. And yes, I mean real fur. I'm recycling a vintage coat I was given a couple of years ago which I have been too afraid of to touch until now. amazing the courage the perfect fabric can give one! :)

My fabric scrap is too small to make the muff on it's own so my first step was figuring out how I was going to enlarge it. I decided to baste it onto a slightly larger piece of two layers of linen and cover the joins with some metallic gimp trim I have in my stash.

 Basting

 Close up of basting. It doesn't have to be neat to be effective!

I actually had about eight metallic trims which I considered and I find it interesting that one of the cheapest was actually the one that looked best...and most expensive...when paired with my fabric. It reminds me that it is best not to make assumptions about these things!

As to the fur lining, when I took the fur apart I discovered all sorts of interesting things. They had used huge sloppy stitches through the hide (but hidden under the hair) to hold various facings and turnings in place, and they had made the original vents at the hem with an integral, turn-back facing stiffened with something like soft parchment or a stiff lightweight leather. This gave a crisp edge to the fur while allowing it to cleanly continue to the reverse side. very nice.  I was inspired by this technique to try making a facing strip of brown paper for the edges of my muff.

After cutting out my fur I split open a brown paper bag and cut out 3 strips of paper which were 2" wide. I marked one edge with a guideline 1/2" in and then basted it to the wrong side of the fur with the 1 1/2" edge hanging over  

Right side

 Wrong side

Then I flipped it back using the 1/2" of paper as a guide and basted it into place while also overcasting the cut edge of the fur

Wrong side

It makes a beautifully soft clean edge (with no shedding!) so I continued  the same process on the other two cut edges of my fur. The third edge of the fur has a band of leather finishing the edge which I kept since I think it will provide a nice stable place to attach the buttons and will wear well.

Right side (but I think you knew that)

The facings give a lovely stiffness to the edge which I think will influence the finished muff to hold it's shape. After some consideration I decided that I wanted to add an internal layer of felt by basting it onto the front also. It helps fill in the hollow left where the front turnings end, and I hope it will keep my hands toasty.

Felt layer basted in place

I then placed my front piece an the fur backing--slightly off center as my original fabric sample isn't centered and I forgot to even it up before I attached it to the linen)--folded in the edges of the fur backing and stitched the whole thing together along the edge of the fur.

 

The assembled muff

Next steps are to add more trim, sew the short ends closed, and add buttons and loops. Almost done.

DONE, DONE, DONE!

Yippee!

IRCC 2 - Nearing the finish line with the loose gown

After cutting, trimming and hemming the 14 tabs for my shoulders I sorted them by width and separated them into two similar stacks of 7 tabs each. I decided to layer them so I made two off-set stacked strips, three-on-four, and pinned them together.

After setting them into the armeye and then setting in the sleeve I have this:

Rather nice, I think. :)

I may decide to attach some of the tabs together near the tips to control the shape they make but I want to give them a bit of time to find their own way. Now on to sewing in the other side!

IRCC 2 - Shoulder tabs are on the way

I've cut shoulder tabs from the leftover strip from the original button placket and pocket flaps of the coat, 14 in all, and am now working on the gold braid.

IRCC 2 - I'm getting close...

No, really!

I attached the collar to the loose gown and I'm about 1/2 done stitching the fur together at the neck. I've also got the first 2 rows of gold braid pinned in place on the collar--all ready to sew--and the sleeves pined into the armseyes. That part is giving me a bit of trouble. I'm taking out one of the sleeves and repinning it until it hangs the same as the other one. I have a feeling it will take several tries but I know it will be worth the effort when they both *behave properly* when I wear the gown. Once I have the angles of the sleeves correct I'll be sewing in the underpart of the sleeves and then...(cue scary music)...making (up) the shoulder treatments.

I have a tiny little pile of fabric left from which to make something decorative for the shoulders. Well, that little pile and a lot of gold braid. Hmmm....

I'm also considering taking the second band of gold braid and doing something decorative with it as it rounds the collar and reaches the center back...

Also hmmmmm....

In the meantime, perhaps you would like to see a picture of my pile of scraps? Um, I mean my shoulder treatment in progress?

IRCC II - Tasty Nibble #9; fuzzy pictures of furry fabulousness!

Closed!

Open!

IRCC II - Tasty Nibble #7

After one false start and a bit of experimentation I've gotten the fur lining finished on the left front of my loose gown.



I'm using the selvedge along the front opening, whip stitching it on, and then running several rows of stitching to catch the lining to the face fabric so the (very slippery) fur will stay in place. I also stitched the lining to the fabric along the gold trim on the hem. And then I turned the fur and stitched it to the lower edge too.