Showing posts with label Sottana. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sottana. Show all posts

Saturday, August 17, 2013

IRCC3 - Whew! It's over and I am TIRED!

I'm also not done, as my bodice has yet to be started and the camicia embroidery project may well outlive me, but I finished my final report and can now rest and speak to my husband for a few days before recommencing. I think he will like that :)

Sunday, August 11, 2013

IRCC3 - All hemmed! Hmm...Now I guess I need a bodice...

Moving on with my hem, I ran another row of prick stitch through the all the layers about 1/2" from the edge of the hem on the fashion fabric thereby encasing the original cut edge and reducing the chances that my clipped hem finish will cause the main body of my doppia to fray. (Essentially, it's for seam allowance!)



I then flipped the facing fabric back toward the outer edge and ran a row of running stitch through the inner layers over the original seam securing the skirt and facing together.



Flipping the facing back again I have the look want, a separate tiny band of facing fabric sandwiched into the seam, and also enough stiffening from the build-up of the successive folded layers that I decided I didn't need to add any cording.



I double folded the remaining facing fabric and positioned it so the leading edge of the four thicknesses buts into the edge of the encased hem. Stitched in place, clipped, ironed, Voila!

Saturday, August 10, 2013

Fear, I'm facing you!

Well, I finally gathered up my courage and started on the hem of my skirt. First step, rounding out the train



I just folded the fabric in half and cut a freehand curve to round out the corner. This is still too square, but with the seam allowance turned under and the back panel gathered into the waistband I think it will be just right.

Second step, turn under the hemline of the skirt about 3/8" and baste in place. Third and fourth steps, cut 5" wide bias strips of bias hem facing, sew together, turn under about 1 1/2" on long edge, pin in place on skirt hem, wrong sides together and with the hem facing extending past the fashion fabric of the skirt about 1/4".






Fifth step, stitch hem facing in place. I used a running stitched worked thru the hem facing and the turn back of the hem on the fashion fabric. The stitches don't show on the right side of the skirt.






I'm trying out a doppia(padded hem) but I can't find the wool felt I purchased for the purpose so I think I'll make do with the linen facing and a row or two of hemp cord. And a heck or a lot of stitching!

Wednesday, August 7, 2013

IRCC3 - Sottana skirt is assembled!

I finally finished all the stiching and my skirt pieces are together. As you can see, I still need to figure out the shape of the train (and possibly piece in some more triangles to soften the curve, but I am happy to say that I like the look, there will still be enough at the waitline for gathering, and I think there is enough sweep at the bottom that I won't feel like I am wearing a column dress even though I only used 2 1/2 lengths of fabric. (OK> Techcnically it is 3 lengths and 2 1/2 breadths. I hope I didn't confuse you. :) )


The view from inside - You can see all the pieces, front panel, two triangles from the 1/4 width piece, one triangle which was removed from the back panel and flipped, back panel




A close up of the inside seams




The view from outside - Once again you can see all the pieces




A close up of the outside seams

Saturday, August 3, 2013

Saturday, July 27, 2013

IRCC3, Layer 2 - Pattern Matching: your mileage may vary

Because the 1/4 width pieces I am using for the triangular shaping in my skirts were actually longer than a skirt panel I am able to play about a bit with the positioning of the pattern on the piece which will be upside down. I tried various things:

Alternate side
even at the top * slightly raised * nearly even at the bottom


And the original side, nearly even at the bottom


While I found the various combinations of wiggly lines interesting, I decided that this version, which continues the rhythm of focal spots horizontally across the breadth of the skirt, is most appealing to me.



And did you notice how nicely the patterns match on the triangles I already attached?