I have been looking at patterns and blogs, ect. to gather my ideas and gird my loins (as it were) for the big jump into patterning a more period gown using a minimum quantity of fabric and in the process I've developed a burning question:
Has anyone tried making their shoulder straps with the fabric cut so they head diagonally *in* toward the center of the body (which I see in period tailor's guides) rather than out (which is consistent with modern practice and thus could be an example of 'seeing what we expect to see.'
It occurs to me that a strap cut as a bias strip would be pretty comfortable...but would it be able to stand the stress at the intersection with the bodice? Would it lay funny on the body? Would that strip solve the problems I have of bodice straps which seem to fit while in the sewing process stubbornly falling completely off my shoulder during wearing?
If some period bodices were cut that way, was it only to conserve fabric or is there an underlying logic that we are failing to realize?
Or have I simply missed out on the great resource which discusses strap design in detail?
Your input is invited. Should I try it?
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I know I read something in the last couple of days discussing a dress with a pieced strap with 3 parts with 3 distinct grains/directions. I just need to figure out where. . .
ReplyDeleteAnd yes, I totally see what you are saying about the strap angling inward (not to mention having a slight curve so it isn't exactly on the bias) in Alcega. There's also the long front strap and short back strap in those diagrams. I bet it would make a huge difference in how the straps work. Certainly worth playing with to see what happens.
ReplyDeleteCurving the straps inward should help with the slippage, but it is a more difficult pattern to draft. If you're doing a mock up, try it out and if it works. And then, of course, let us know!
ReplyDeletedo you mean at the back of the bodice or the front? I've done the back so it forms a v at the nape of the neck and it does very well for solving the straps slipping off the shoulder problem
ReplyDeleteBoth, actually. The straps I'm thinking of start at the armseye like usual but head in and up (vaugely toward the chin/nape of the neck).
ReplyDeleteIt sounds like you have tried something related to a racer-back?