Saturday, January 21, 2012

Concurrences: Being my musings on project ideas for the "Over and Above" Challenge at The Realm of Venus

The focus of the challenge is on outerwear, mainly coats of various sorts, but since I already have a stunning loose gown which I rarely get to wear I'm going to be working on a Venetian-style veil.

Poking about for inspirational pictures on the web has shown me that while Venetian veils share a common theme as to size (huge!) there is a great deal of variety in shape, color, texture, opacity, decoration and manner of wearing.

Shape: I see evidence of rectangles, triangles and half-circles being common veil shapes. Additionally I find several illustrations that suggest the veil may be a rectangle which has been folded across the breadth and stitched together along one of the long edges. (Thus making a 1/2 open pouch shape rather like a coif) Admittedly, the pouchy bagginess of the drape of these veils could have been achieved in other ways--such as the judicious use of pins--but I find the possibility of a structured veil intriguing.

Color: Along with black, white, and the legendary yellow, I find evidence beige, blue, gold, red, pink and green. Notably, one example appears to be a two-color shot silk organza whose overall effect is a coral-pink.

Texture: I see evidence of veils in a variety of textures, fine to coarse, plus both smooth and textured weaves. In addition, the veils appear to have a variety of 'hands' from a liquid drape to a rather crunchy stiffness.

Opacity: While I had believed that the veil would be slightly-translucent-to-opaque in most cases, it appears that the reverse may be true. In the majority of illustrations I have seen the veil material is in the translucent-to-sheer end of the range and it is frequently very nearly transparent. It should be noted, however, that once removed from the head an opaque veil simply looks like a shawl, tablecloth, or random piece of fabric drapery so it is likely that I have misinterpreted some objects that a period viewer would have recognized as opaque veils.

Decoration-Overall: In addition to the many examples of various types of woven stripes, I find hints of more elaborate patterns. Whether these patterns were confined to bands at the edges of the veil and whether woven or applied is unclear.

Decoration-Edge: Plain hems, fringe, plain lace, tassels and ornamented lace are all seen.

While there may well have been meaning ascribed to veils of different colors, etc. (the language of the veil :) ), it seems likely that, in some cases at least, the color, shape and materials of one's veil were a personal aesthetic decision.

So, I have been mulling over options for a new veil. I am on a personal mission to bring more pattern into SCA events so I rather like the idea of of a striped veil. I also really like handwork and trying new things so I've been thinking a lot about edge treatments. Hmm. What to do?

Which brings me to the afore-mentioned concurrences...

Veil Option 1:

Sheer with woven textured stripes












Mores Italiae, 1575












Mores Italiae, 1575











Agnolo Bronzino, 1550










Corded silk Organza (available on e-bay)

Veil Option 2:

Sheer with woven gold stripes












Cesare Vecellio 1589-90













Bartolomeo Veneto 1520's










Silk organza with gold stripes (available on ebay)


Veil Option 3:

Translucent with an amazing edging

I'm thinking a sheer linen with lace edging...maybe in knotwork?

5 comments:

  1. I really like the first corded organza, but it might be a symptom of adoring the picture with the blue veste over the orange gown. :) BUT an amazing edging is always so much fun. Tassels and macrame have a huge chunk of my heart. The tassels and heavier edging on my veil make it so much easier to wear (for me) because it stays where its put. On the other hand, my other veils are leftovers from my belly dance days and the loft and flight of a lightweight veil is fun. The cording in the organza would probably give it sufficient weight. I agree with more color and pattern. There can never be enough. :)

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  2. Also. Where's the 16th century macrame image from? I've been having a hard time finding information on period styles.

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  3. It's from "Old Italian Lace" by Elisa Ricci, 1913 volume 1

    It's available on-line at:
    http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books/re_lace_12.pdf

    The section on macramé starts at the very end of their PDF secton 11 but this picture is the 6th page of PDF section 12. I found it really worth reading the text at the beginning of the section. The statement "The ancient use of towels and kerchiefs ... worn As a protection to the head in Italy." Is what got me started thinking about a veil with a macramé edging.

    I'm not so sure that it is a 29 day project. I'd have to pull the weft threads out of several inches of fabric on each end before I could even start on the knotting...but it sure would be pretty!

    I'm currently working on a test piece of the pattern in image 377. Just to see if I can figure something out. Pictures soon!

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  4. 377 was my favorite pattern too. TOTALLY understand the 29 day project problem. That was my issue with my last attempt at a minichallenge. My project just kept getting bigger and bigger. Thank you for the reference.

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  5. My pleasure! I'm just sorry I missed it the first time.

    However, I can't really take credit for the find. A gentle called Nauloera posted the reference to the Glen Abhan mailing list on yahoo a couple of years ago and I found the post collected on www.florilegium.org.

    I'm just sharing the wealth. :)

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